Fresh pea soup

1. Heat butter in a large saucepan, add the leeks and onion, and cook over medium-low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until onion is tender. Add the chicken stock, increase heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the peas and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until peas are tender. (Frozen peas will take only 3 minutes.) Remove from heat, add the mint, salt, and pepper.

2. Purée soup in batches: Place 1 cup of soup in a blender, place lid on top, and purée on low speed. With blender still running, open the vent hole in the lid and slowly add more soup until blender is three-quarters full. Pour puréed soup into a large bowl and repeat until all the soup is puréed. Whisk in the créme fr¿¿iche and chives and taste for seasoning. Serve hot with garlic croutons. Makes 6 servings.

Chicken Stock: Place 3, 5-pound whole roasting chickens, 3 large yellow onions, unpeeled and quartered, 6 carrots, unpeeled, halved, 4 celery stalks with leaves, cut in thirds, 4 parsnips, unpeeled, cut in half (if using), 20 springs fresh flat-leaf parsley, 15 sprigs fresh thyme, 20 sprigs fresh dill, 1 head garlic, unpeeled, cut in half crosswise, 2 tablespoons kosher salt, and 2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns in a 16- to 20-quart stockpot. Add 7 quarts water and bring to a boil. Simmer uncovered for 4 hours. Strain the entire contents of the pot through a colander and discard the solids. Pack in quart containers and chill overnight. Refrigerate for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 6 months.